Fashion report: Now and next

Fashion report: Now and next

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What to wear now

Spring/Summer 2017 is already shaping up to be a memorable season for the style set. Samantha Cameron’s fashion label, Cefinn, has received a warm reception from consumers and retailers who’ve admired her eye for smart dressing. The initial 36-piece collection is reassuringly minimalist and ageless; however, Cefinn only goes up to a size 14. We’d like to see a diverse spectrum of sizes, please.

Whether you’re experiencing March sunshine or April showers, nature-inspired jewellery completes your outfit this season, as seen at Christopher Kane and Monica Vinader: think minerals, crystals and foliage aplenty.

Look to Dublin-based Chupi for elegant pieces cast from found objects, such as hawthorn twigs, leaves and shells; for a bespoke necklace or ring featuring gemstones, ammonites or Baroque pearls, see Samira Jafari. Lily Kamper’s column necklaces, featuring on-trend malachite and azurite, are proving popular (lilykamper.com).

As for the see-now-buy-now brands, Ralph Lauren’s runway collection in mid-February was a sea of cream, gold and taupe, but his Swarovski crystal bracelet was a stand-out piece, treated to mimic tarnished or mercurised Venetian glass. Team it with a military wool made-to-order cape by Burberry.

Next season’s trends

At the time of going to press, we’re mid-way through Fashion Month, and Autumn/Winter 2017 trends have started to emerge. Victoria Beckham and Joseph both championed masculine tailoring through longline blazers and jackets, paired with relaxed fit trousers. Conversely, black floral prints were a highlight at Kate Spade, Simone Rocha and Angelo Marani.

The most cerebral references came from Erdem, who drew on his Turkish heritage to celebrate Turkish culture through the ages. It’s not often you can say your outfit was inspired by an Ottoman military campaign in the late 16th century. Gucci’s collection, called The Alchemist’s Garden, was just as imaginative, featuring old-fashioned flora and fauna prints, references to William Blake’s Songs of Innocence and of Experience, and ‘remote worlds’, as imagined by creative director Alessandro Michele, who called it an ‘anti-modern laboratory’. For the first time, the men’s and women’s collections were shown together.

Baby blue could replace Pepto-Bismol pink as the ‘It’ pastel shade. Jenny Packham used this hue on velvet, lace, PVC and plaid in her Autumn/Winter 2017 collection, accessorised with British classics like pearls, neck scarves and court shoes. Her main reference point was Her Majesty the Queen, so there was also a Corgi t-shirt on the catwalk. Mulberry clashed tweed, plaid and lace detailing in a similarly eccentric British-inspired show, with flashes of baby blue, mint green and lilac; Temperley London picked up the same blue and lilac, too. Meanwhile, models at Prabal Gurung sported pale blue slicks of high pigment eyeshadow, paired with neutral make-up.

In a poignant tribute, Pantone teamed up with a range of British designers to create Nicoll Blue, a new shade commemorating the designer Richard Nicoll, who passed away unexpectedly in October 2016.

“The visual presence of Nicoll Blue throughout the main fashion week venue is a way to remember and celebrate a great London friend and to convey our respects and eternal gratitude to his family,” said Sarah Mower, the British Fashion Council’s Ambassador for Emerging Talent. Labels adopting the colour included Roksanda, via a show-stopping silk jersey dress, and Nike, with a pair of limited edition hi-tops.

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