The Lucky Pig, located just 5 minutes away from Fulham Broadway on St North End Road, is aiming to recreate the glamour of the roaring twenties. The place is kitted out with art décor lampshades, immaculately dressed waiters carrying elegant cocktails across the marbled floors as a live jazz band plays you in. It certainly gets your attention upon entering.
The menu is definitely playing with the theme of opulence, Quail’s Eggs served with Summer Truffle and Crispy Lamb Sweet Breads served with Creamed Artichoke adorning its pages. As a little test I had opted to try the most unusual starter on the menu, and the Pressed Ox-Cheek & Bone Marrow certainly was. The meat had been rendered down and compacted into something that may be a little too close to corned beef for some, but none the less had a very pleasant flavour and paired very well with the beetroot and blue cheese. The other starter we were lucky enough to sample was the Seared West-Coast Scallops with Seaweed Potato Cakes. Excellent fresh scallops were seared on the outside, moist on the inside; very nice with the potato cakes and accompanying orange buerre blanc sauce. All the starters on the menu are around the £10 mark, with our choices coming to £9.50 and £10.50 respectively, offering pretty decent value.
I had brought along a friend of mine who has certainly learnt to appreciate the finer things; it came as no surprise that he took under a minute to choose his main course. The Roast Lamb Chuck, with Crispy Sweetbreads, Honey Roast Squash and Lilliput Lentils was as luxurious as it sounds. Slices of perfectly medium-rare lamb on a bed of roast squash, with hefty portions of both and the addition of lentils and a mint vinaigrette lent the dish a Moroccan/French fusion feel; top class food at a high end price of £21.50.
We felt we needed to try the Lucky Pig’s signature dish, the Malt and Stout slow-cooked Pork Belly, which was a feast unto itself. A large cube of meat takes centre stage on the plate with a geometrically perfect square of crispy crackling resting on top. This was some really good quality pork with a lovely melt-in-your-mouth quality. The malt and stout sauce was beautifully rich with a slight hint of infused flavour from the sautéed nettles and chard that joined it. This came to £18.50 and will be guaranteed to leave you with a full stomach.
In our final act of hedonism we had the desserts rolled out. The Almond Ice Cream with Espresso Soaked Dates was the absolute picture of 1920s flair. Served in a cocktail glass with such an elegant caramel basket dome placed on the rim that it felt a shame to crack into it. However it was very much worth it, beneath the sugary cage was some of the best ice cream I’ve tried, with the lovely almond flavour blending with the sweet dates and bitter coffee excellently. This will set you back £7.50.
The Lucky Pig really does have a lot of atmosphere, it’s easy to get carried away into your own “Masters of the Universe” fantasy, but it’s not as pretentious as it might sound; it’s just that – a fantasy. It’s a fun night out unlike a lot of other more sobering fine dining experiences, the waiters are extremely attentive and knowledgeable of the menu but are also quick to join in on a joke and look as if they’re having a bit of fun themselves. The food here does a great job of mirroring the glamourous, razzling and dazzling theme of the restaurant but transcends cheap gimmick and provides some really classy dishes.
374 North End Road, Fulham SW6 1LY
Tel: 0207 3851300