Art St. Kitchen [appropriately enough] takes its moniker from the rather whimsically named Art Street. Art Street, which presumably earned its name due to it’s a proximity to the Tate Britain, is a snaking capillary leading to the Thames and Art St Kitchen takes full advantage of its scenic position. The restaurant is attached to the Double-Tree by Hilton and whilst its design is pleasingly sleek with an expansive glass frontage; it doesn’t exactly break the mould, preferring to do it’s talking via the food.
The ‘concept’ behind Art St. Kitchen is ‘art on a plate’, thankfully this is more about arrangement and aesthetics than serving up miniature Rodins as antipasti. The restaurant offers a tapas-like service, with each plate designed to be shared, and it must be said the prices are very reasonable. We began with two selection from the extensive small plate selection, never having encountered a cephalopod that I didn’t like I swung for the fried squid, fried orange and lemon slices [£6.50] whilst my guest, keen to nurture his inner Dalstonite, couldn’t resist the pulled pork terrine, fennel and apple salad [£6.50] both dishes put the lie to the ‘small plate’ descriptor as they were more than generous. The squid was wonderfully tangy, whilst the fried orange slices added an unexpectedly fresh counterpoint which offset the dish nicely. The pulled pork terrine was slightly more generic but certainly filling and raised up by the sharply accented apple salad, which unexpectedly stole the thunder from underneath the pulled pork.
Moving on to the large plates we continued our split between fish and meat with the pan fried hake, paprika hollandaise, tenderstem broccoli and lemon [£15.00] opposite the sliced flank steak, shitake mushrooms, garlic and horseradish [£15.00]. The sliced flank steak caught the attention far more than the pulled pork, the garlic and horseradish duelled for dominance against the juicy palate of the steak with one’s taste buds emerging the clear victor. The hake was well paired with the paprika hollandaise, which came together in a rich finish should see any fans of seafood smiling. To close we tucked into a possibly life-threateningly decadent black forest chocolate tart [£6.00] alongside the equally heart-stopping sticky toffee cheesecake, both delicious but with a tendency to leave you a groaning wreck by the end. Art St. Kitchen is decent value for good food, if one’s artistic urges bring you to the Tate Britain it’s well worth being drawn that bit further.
Art St. Kitchen Address: Art Street SW1P 4DU